Tuesday, 1 July 2014

The rules of stylish men's dress: a guide to the choice of shirt


L 'menswear provides, in its formal sense, compliance with a code of intrinsic established rules, dictated by the nature of the place, whether by occasion where sports. Dealing with the matter masculine elegance (and etiquette in general) we have already written about the hat , but today we begin to deal with a very broad theme: the choice of shirt to wear under the jacket, according to the canons of the classic men's dress well because under certain circumstances, "the FA suit the Monaco".

For a formal occasion (wedding, gala), a man who will not go wrong choosing white as the color of the shirt. Although this is the color most trivial and most obvious, the rules of the men prefer to dress well under certain circumstances: in fact, the classic white shirt is still the best choice for the job interview that for the events in which it is required EXPRESSLY to 'man the dress. Never wear a white shirt under a transparent fabric jacket fashion: is decidedly tacky t-shirt underwear that is visible! Then choose a shirt twisted or otherwise made of a heavy cotton.

In formal occasions, however, but more "relaxed", and might opt ​​for a colored shirt, as long as there are addresses of soft colors and / or a striped fabric from delicate shades (blue, pink and lilac are the nuances that are all the rage, for further information and advice on the choice of colorful shirts read Pairings colors jacket-shirt-tie


Although the measures have a prominent role. The majority of men choose the size of the shirt only on the basis of the size of the neck (which correspond to the measurement of the circumference), leaving the sleeve length. Recall that the cuffs of the shirt should be longer than the jacket sleeve (1-2 cm). So make sure that both the neck, and the sleeves fit perfectly to your measurements.

Let the buttons: to keep strictly buttoned. All buttons, even the little ones that are on the side of the sleeve just above the cuff, should be buttoned. Same goes for the buttons of the shirts with button-down collar, which if not buttoned, protrude so-ugly and clumsy. 


Shirt-tie, the basic rules of male elegance


Two Piece Suit , Hogo Boss 
Dress Shirt, Natty Shirts
 Tie, GQ

The combination of shirt-tie rhymes always with the well-dress man. The thesis that requires formal wear follow the precise rules, however, is likely to take for granted the choice of garments to be worn, so as to flatten the image (and personal style!) Of the individual man.

We have therefore decided to dedicate the modern man a sort of guide to help him distressing between the canons of formal elegance, not to mention his personality and without the risk of appearing a rigid dummy.

Let's start from that detail, the tie, which more than any other denoting the masculine style. Choosing the right tie is often a task that is likely to get delayed even more punctual man, that's why we offer a simple step-by-step guide to follow, consideration the characteristics of the tie and 'combination that you want to get.

1 - The width of the tie often hear about in the book "bow-tie", it is a closer tie (usually 4cm, compared to the standard 7-8 cm of the tie classical) that is very much in vogue lately. The tie is the preferred choice by young people and those who want to opt for a more informal and less rigorous. According to the rules of elegant men's dress, the right width of the tie should be evaluated based on the reverse of the jacket (a jacket with broader shoulders and wider lapels will then tie larger)

In VS diatribe tie tie our suggestion is to choose both on the basis of the context (more or less official / formal), both based on your physical appearance, because a tie wider than is advisable man with abundant waistline.

2 - The length of the tie: the formal wear requires that the tie is long up to the waistband of his pants. Also in this case it is good to keep in mind the characteristics of your body: the harmony of proportions is the key, always. So a tall average 1 m, 75 to 1.80 wearing waist pants based, should opt for a standard tie the tip of which just grazes (without cover) belt. The tie is a standard length of 150 cm, XL ties exist (for very tall men, long around 160-165 cm). Eye and then to calculate the right point node (see below), so that after you arrive knotted about the height of the pants.

3 - The imagination of the tie: the combination of the tie to the shirt follows a simple rule of thumb, avoid unpleasant mix and match different geometric shapes. So fantasies and righ and must be selected with care. For a plain shirt is granted a greater number of combinations of ties, but no need to opt for the monotony. In fact, a Regimental tie (with phono dominant color of diagonal lines and other color) goes well with a striped shirt.   



 The important thing is that similar patterns have different sizes (thin lines match the striped shirt doubles of the tie). Also remember that in coordinating the different colors should choose the dominant one look, and follow different variations of the same hue (usually we focus on gray, brown or blue). One last tip: while the horizontal lines and fantasies tend to charge the look, the vertical lines and dark colors in the plain conform. That's why the ties "business" are anything but original! ;-)



Let me, therefore, that the geometric patterns in small designs combinations in formal occasions, while maintaining a certain elegance and elaborate fantasies reserved only for large designs or totally informal occasions.

The half tight, stye tips



Let's talk about style rules, dealing another topic concerning the selection of the ' right outfit for every occasion . Today we see the half tight, tight like that should not be worn for ceremonies that take place after 18.30.

This choice is less demanding of tight, although it must be worn at all times for elegant ceremonies and formal, or if the bride chose a gown is important, but more "comfortable" (in this regard see article The tight: details and additions for a ' impeccable elegance ). However, it should always be taken with regard to some wear.

The main difference lies in the fact that the jacket does not have the code, but the front remains the same and retains the color black, gray or anthracite.

The pants have a straight cut with pleats and flap without end. The color is gray with a slight plastering, also in two different shades.

To choose the vest, the expected color is pearl gray exclusively, without concessions fashion colors or extravagant. The shirt is perfectly white, with collar and cuffs diplomats, then stopped by twins.

Regarding the complement of the tie, with in half tight can be more relaxed tie with classic Windsor knot, with the expedient to do so high and slightly wider. Alternatively, the ascot or cravat pin with is also indicated, and confers no doubt more important. The shoes are black and opaque, from the classical model.

Fundamental with the medium should never be worn tight cylinder and gloves and coat, even though it is winter.   The flagship is the bride's bouquet.